Must-have frizz-fighting tips to help you whip your get your curls back in shape in no time.
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10ShareAlicia Ward
April 28th, 2011
Get a good haircut for your curls.
We know how frustrating frizzy hair can be, and we’re here to help! We’ve compiled this must-have list of our favorite no-frizz tips for curly hair.
1. A Good Haircut is Key
Split ends are the beginning of frizz, so stop them before they start by getting your curls trimmed every 6-8 weeks. Don’t cut hair too short, since shrinkage can be a real problem in humidity. You can find the best stylist for your curls using NaturallyCurly’s Salon Finder.
2. Don’t Shampoo Every Day
Curly, kinky and wavy hair needs the natural oils from your scalp to reduce frizz. No more than four washes every week is good. For your off days, go the rinse and condition route.
3. Lots of Conditioner!
Moisturize = Happy Curls! Aѕ curls succumb easily tο dryness, regular conditioning іѕ crucial. Never skip thе conditioner, аnԁ avoid two-іn-one, shampoo/conditioners. Once уου аrе done shampooing, squeeze extra moisture frοm уουr tresses (never wring), thеn work уουr conditioner іn frοm root tο tip. Leave thе conditioner іn fοr at least two minutes before rinsing. Using a deep conditioner once a week can be a major hеlр іn combating frizz.
4. Rinse with Cold Water!
Try a cold rinse to seal the hair cuticle and make it extra shiny. Let your hair drip after you rinse, and do not comb through it any more. Whеn rinsing out your conditioner, υѕе thе сοldest water уου саn tolerate, since сοƖԁ water helps smooth thе cuticle, diminishing frizz аnԁ fluffy, flyaway hair. Cold water also locks the follicle, which keeps the hair sleeker and shinier.
5. Avoid Terrycloth Towels; Use Microfiber Instead
Avoid wringing or rubbing your hair with a towel as this creates friction, breakage and split ends. Gently scrunch out most of the water with your fingers while you’re still in the shower. Always avoid rubbing the towel over your head as this will break up the curls you just shaped. The key when using any towel is flip your head over and scrunch up. Microfiber towels not only reduce frizz but speed up drying time. Microfiber is a super-absorbent fabric that soaks up excess water. Microfiber does not disturb the cuticle – instead it smooths it down, reducing frizz.
6. Air Dry, Hood Dry or Use a Diffuser
Curls and kinks can quickly become frazzled into frizz in the drying phase of the styling process. While using a diffuser can add a much-needed boost to looser curls, a hooded dryer is often the best option for kinkier curl types. If you have a really tight curl and kinky texture, try a hooded dryer because it will make heat flow down so it won’t disturb the curl as much as a blow dryer or diffuser. If you don’t have a hooded dryer at home, try air drying instead.
7. Comb Conditioner Through Hair in the Shower
Conditioning is a must, and distribution is the key. Distribute conditioner in the shower to help your so your hair will absorb more as the steam opens the hair follicle. Comb your hair out, parting it as you go. Be sure to apply lots of conditioner and really work it in there using a wide-tooth comb.
8. NEVER Use a Brush
Skip the hairbrush—separate your curls and define your hair style with a wide-toothed comb or your fingers. Don’t brush your hair—EVER! Get yourself a wide-toothed comb and comb your hair while it’s wet (you may want to comb the conditioner through in the shower to help with tangles). Brushing while wet will break your hair, and brushing while dry is a curly hair sin.
9. Don’t Touch Your Hair
Don’t touch your hair even though it’s tempting! The more you play with and tousle your hair during the day, the more frizz you’re going to get. If you need to, you can perform a mid-day touch up by moistening broken curls and wrapping them around your finger to reshape them.
10. A Pomade is Great for Mid-Day Touch Ups
Pomade is great for controlling frizz and even repelling humidity—if you use the right product. Use these products very sparingly by emulsifying the hair pomade into your palms until it’s barely there. Then skim gently over the surface of the hair, coaxing stray hairs into the natural waves where they are supposed to be. Follow through to the ends for best definition…and don’t forget about the back. Certain pomades combat puffy, frizzy hair. Pomades do not harden in the hair, and because they are rather thick, work well to define the hair while controlling flyaways, which will make your hair appear smoother. Pomades also weigh the hair down slightly, keeping it from appearing so puffy.
11. Apply Styling Products to Dripping Wet Hair
Add products to your hair while it’s still wet. A good place to start is a gοοԁ leave-іn conditioner. Always υѕе conditioner liberally аftеr washing, directly οn уουr damp hair, paying special attention tο the ends. Aftеr applying thе leave-іn conditioner, apply serum evenly, mаkіnɡ sure еνеrу curl іѕ coated. Thеѕе steps, plus deep conditioning weekly, ѕhουƖԁ ɡеt rid οf frizz. Ensure thаt thе products уου υѕе аrе mаԁе fοr уουr type οf hair аnԁ thе type οf styling уου prefer. Each hair type responds differently to weather conditions. Make sure you are using the right no-frizz products for your hair type.
12. Avoid Frizzy Hair Stressors
Smoking, excessive ingestion of alcohol or caffeine (which are diuretics and have a drying effect on the whole body), chemical treatments (including coloring and perming), and excessive consumption of processed foods can create or worsen frizzy hair.
13. SPF For Your Locks!
To decrease sun damage, use a shampoo with a built-in SPF. SPF protects your hair just like your skin – and prevents it from drying out.
14. Sleep on a Satin Pillowcase
When you sleep, you toss and turn, which creates friction causing tangles, split ends and breakage. Satin pillowcases reduce frizz-causing friction by minimizing hair breakage and reducing split ends. A satin pillowcase also makes it easier to maintain hairstyles. Use satin whenever possible, whether that’s a scarf bonnet to protect spirals or a pillow case to rest a curly head. Sleeping with satin helps to maintain the moisture in the hair. Cotton and other materials dry hair out, which adds to frizz.
Note: Some curlies ask about silk pillowcases. Silk is a natural fiber, and while some believe that silk provides hair and skin benefits, it does have a tendency to have tiny irregularities in it, which can cause friction. We recommend satin pillowcases. Satin is a type of smooth finish more effective in reducing frizz.
15. Cut Down on Hot Styling Tools
The heat from styling tools, such as hair dryers, curling irons, flat irons or hot rollers, can leave hair dry and damaged which leads to more frizz. In addition, hair tends to form uniform curls more easily when it dries naturally. Try to keep the use of these hot styling tools to a minimum. When a flat iron or hair dryer is a must, use a silicone-based serum beforehand to protect hair from the heat and control frizz.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Monday, May 2, 2011
Silicones and other sealants for natural hair
by Nicole Hollis of Hair Liberty
When compared to other hair types, African American hair is particularly fragile. That's because any type of curly hair is dry due to the bend or kink in each curl. The area where the curl bends has raised cuticle scales, which means it's porous and can't hold on to moisture well. The more kinks in a strand, the more porous and dry the strand will be. With that in mind, the #1 goal of a good regimen for African American hair is to keep the hair moisturized and therefore minimize breakage.
As you've learned by now, there's no point in applying moisture to porous hair, without sealing it in. When you apply an effective sealant to moisturized skin or hair, the moisture can stay in and benefit the keratin cells, instead of quickly evaporating away. If you don't apply an effective sealant, the skin or hair will become dry quickly and you'll need to re-apply moisture over and over again. African American women with natural hair often prefer natural sealants like coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter. Those oils are rich in nutrients like fatty acids and Vitamin E, so they can replenish what the strands may lack. Plant-based oils have many proven benefits for the hair, but they actually don't make the best sealants.
For many years, the best personal care sealant available was mineral oil, a byproduct of petroleum. In scientific studies, mineral oil was shown to provide a better seal or protective layer than other oils. Since African American hair is known to be porous, mineral oil and petrolatum began to appear in most ethnic hair care products. Even though the products created back then were very simple, they provided two crucial elements: water for moisture and mineral oil as a highly effective sealant (and pretty good heat protectant too).
Fast forward a few decades and moisturized hair is not enough. African American women want their hair to be soft, but not greasy and strong, but not stiff. Customers also want their hair to be easy to comb, even if it hasn't been washed in days and thermal protection for flat irons that get as hot as 450°F. There is no natural oil that can meet all of those demands, which explains why hair care companies began using silicones.
Slicones are synthetic oils. They come from "silicon", the naturally occurring element that makes up glass and sand. The first commercially available silicone, dimethicone, has been used in skin creams and lotions since the 1950s, but about 20 years ago, the hair care industry began adding it to shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in products. In studies, dimethicone was found to condition the hair and protect it from dehydration better than mineral oil. Companies have continued to create new and better silicones over the years and now there are silicones that can help the hair dry faster (cyclomethicone), target the most damaged areas of the strand to provide deep conditioning (amodimethicone), and even strengthen the hair (aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone).
Despite the proven advantages of silicones, some women make a big effort to avoid them. These women are often choosing to follow the hair care method promoted by Lorraine Massey in her 2001 instructional book for curly-haired women, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Regarding silicones, Massey wrote:
I suggest that you avoid conditioners that use silicones. Although they do add temporary shine to the hair, I find they weigh down curly hair. (That means avoid using products with ingredients whose name end in -cone.) The ingredients you absolutely need in conditioner include emollients, humectants, proteins, and moisturizers.
Four years later, in a Q&A featured on naturallycurly.com, Massey admitted that her original book was written before she ever heard of more sophisticated silicones like amodimethicone. Unfortunately, misinformation had already spread across the Internet and to this day, silicones are wrongly blamed for drying out the hair due to build up when in reality the opposite is true.
Any oil, natural or synthetic, can build up on the hair, but you can easily avoid build up by using shampoo (not just co-washing). And, if you're concerned about damage caused by shampooing too much, simply choose a pH-balanced shampoo for your hair type. Hair care companies use words like "dry", "coarse", "fine", and/or "chemically-treated" on their labels to help you choose the products that they think you'll like best (and therefore continue to buy). So, if you're concerned that shampoo will make your dry hair even drier, instead of avoiding shampoo, choose a shampoo formulated for dry hair. That usually means a conditioning shampoo that's effective enough to remove build up, but gentle enough that it can be used every wash.
Silicones, especially dimethicone, are in many parts of our lives. You can find them in lotions, deodorants, skin medications, and even Chicken McNuggets. The reason thousands of hair products contain silicones is because they work extremely well to condition, soften, and seal the hair. If you've been following a "no cones" or "no poo" regimen and you aren't seeing the results you hoped for, it's certainly time to explore the other side!
Hair Liberty is a comprehensive resource for African American hair care information. We sort through the latest hair care advice and compare hundred of products to find the most accurate recommendations for our readers. Visit hairliberty.org to learn about your hair and how to achieve your hair goals. And be sure to Like the Hair Liberty Facebook page for extra tips and info!
When compared to other hair types, African American hair is particularly fragile. That's because any type of curly hair is dry due to the bend or kink in each curl. The area where the curl bends has raised cuticle scales, which means it's porous and can't hold on to moisture well. The more kinks in a strand, the more porous and dry the strand will be. With that in mind, the #1 goal of a good regimen for African American hair is to keep the hair moisturized and therefore minimize breakage.
As you've learned by now, there's no point in applying moisture to porous hair, without sealing it in. When you apply an effective sealant to moisturized skin or hair, the moisture can stay in and benefit the keratin cells, instead of quickly evaporating away. If you don't apply an effective sealant, the skin or hair will become dry quickly and you'll need to re-apply moisture over and over again. African American women with natural hair often prefer natural sealants like coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter. Those oils are rich in nutrients like fatty acids and Vitamin E, so they can replenish what the strands may lack. Plant-based oils have many proven benefits for the hair, but they actually don't make the best sealants.
For many years, the best personal care sealant available was mineral oil, a byproduct of petroleum. In scientific studies, mineral oil was shown to provide a better seal or protective layer than other oils. Since African American hair is known to be porous, mineral oil and petrolatum began to appear in most ethnic hair care products. Even though the products created back then were very simple, they provided two crucial elements: water for moisture and mineral oil as a highly effective sealant (and pretty good heat protectant too).
Fast forward a few decades and moisturized hair is not enough. African American women want their hair to be soft, but not greasy and strong, but not stiff. Customers also want their hair to be easy to comb, even if it hasn't been washed in days and thermal protection for flat irons that get as hot as 450°F. There is no natural oil that can meet all of those demands, which explains why hair care companies began using silicones.
Slicones are synthetic oils. They come from "silicon", the naturally occurring element that makes up glass and sand. The first commercially available silicone, dimethicone, has been used in skin creams and lotions since the 1950s, but about 20 years ago, the hair care industry began adding it to shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in products. In studies, dimethicone was found to condition the hair and protect it from dehydration better than mineral oil. Companies have continued to create new and better silicones over the years and now there are silicones that can help the hair dry faster (cyclomethicone), target the most damaged areas of the strand to provide deep conditioning (amodimethicone), and even strengthen the hair (aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone).
Despite the proven advantages of silicones, some women make a big effort to avoid them. These women are often choosing to follow the hair care method promoted by Lorraine Massey in her 2001 instructional book for curly-haired women, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Regarding silicones, Massey wrote:
I suggest that you avoid conditioners that use silicones. Although they do add temporary shine to the hair, I find they weigh down curly hair. (That means avoid using products with ingredients whose name end in -cone.) The ingredients you absolutely need in conditioner include emollients, humectants, proteins, and moisturizers.
Four years later, in a Q&A featured on naturallycurly.com, Massey admitted that her original book was written before she ever heard of more sophisticated silicones like amodimethicone. Unfortunately, misinformation had already spread across the Internet and to this day, silicones are wrongly blamed for drying out the hair due to build up when in reality the opposite is true.
Any oil, natural or synthetic, can build up on the hair, but you can easily avoid build up by using shampoo (not just co-washing). And, if you're concerned about damage caused by shampooing too much, simply choose a pH-balanced shampoo for your hair type. Hair care companies use words like "dry", "coarse", "fine", and/or "chemically-treated" on their labels to help you choose the products that they think you'll like best (and therefore continue to buy). So, if you're concerned that shampoo will make your dry hair even drier, instead of avoiding shampoo, choose a shampoo formulated for dry hair. That usually means a conditioning shampoo that's effective enough to remove build up, but gentle enough that it can be used every wash.
Silicones, especially dimethicone, are in many parts of our lives. You can find them in lotions, deodorants, skin medications, and even Chicken McNuggets. The reason thousands of hair products contain silicones is because they work extremely well to condition, soften, and seal the hair. If you've been following a "no cones" or "no poo" regimen and you aren't seeing the results you hoped for, it's certainly time to explore the other side!
Hair Liberty is a comprehensive resource for African American hair care information. We sort through the latest hair care advice and compare hundred of products to find the most accurate recommendations for our readers. Visit hairliberty.org to learn about your hair and how to achieve your hair goals. And be sure to Like the Hair Liberty Facebook page for extra tips and info!
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
"Greasing" your scalp...
If you grew up in a traditional African American household,a jar of hair grease was never too far away. Oiling the scalp with thick grease was thought to be a staple of any good hair care regimen. Today, experts advise against oiling the scalp, but many African American women still believe that hair grease is a part of obtaining healthy hair. Unfortunately, oiling the scalp does not promote hair growth and can actually stunt hair growth significantly.
One of the problems with oiling your scalp has to do with the type of oil used. Hair grease (examples include Bergamot, Blue Magic, Ultra Sheen, and TCB) is usually made of petrolatum, mineral oil, and/or lanolin. Those substances create a heavy barrier on your scalp and hair. When you oil your scalp with hair grease, it just sits on top of the skin, clogging your pores and hair follicles. This "grease barrier" also makes it difficult for water and other moisturizers to penetrate your hair and scalp. So, hair grease should definitely be avoided, but grease isn't the only reason to stop oiling your scalp.
Putting any type of oil on your scalp can cause or worsen dandruff. Dandruff is caused by a type of fungus called Malassezia. Doctors don't really know how dandruff starts but they believe it's linked to oily skin and infrequent hair washing. Continuing to put oil on dandruff flakes feeds the fungus and aggravates the condition. To quickly rid yourself of dandruff, use an anti-dandruff shampoo. The Hair Liberty Boutique offers effective options that are gentle on your hair.
If you are someone who applies oil regularly, it's probably because you're trying to moisturize your hair and scalp. It's true, your scalp does need to be moisturized (just like the rest of your skin), but you take care of that when you wash and condition your hair.
Give yourself a scalp massage instead
A healthy scalp is soft, flake-free, and not oily - just like the skin on your face. If you cannot break the habit of oiling your scalp, just shift your efforts from oiling to massaging. Massaging your scalp can slowly stimulate hair growth, especially in areas that have thinned due to tight hairstyles like weaves and braids.
Follow these easy steps:
Step 1: Start by avoiding products that contain large amounts (first five ingredients) of mineral oil, petrolatum, or lanolin.
Step 2: Replace hair grease with pure, natural oils like coconut, olive, avocado, castor, or jojoba oil.
Step 3: Use about 1 tablespoon of oil to lubricate the area of your scalp that you plan to massage. For an extra boost, add 2 drops each of rosemary, lavender, cedarwood, and thyme essential oil.
Step 4: Apply the oil, keeping your fingers planted and moving them in a circular motion. Just like when you get a light back rub or shoulder massage. Don't scratch!
Step 5: To stimulate hair growth, massage for 2-5 minutes daily or as often as possible.
One of the problems with oiling your scalp has to do with the type of oil used. Hair grease (examples include Bergamot, Blue Magic, Ultra Sheen, and TCB) is usually made of petrolatum, mineral oil, and/or lanolin. Those substances create a heavy barrier on your scalp and hair. When you oil your scalp with hair grease, it just sits on top of the skin, clogging your pores and hair follicles. This "grease barrier" also makes it difficult for water and other moisturizers to penetrate your hair and scalp. So, hair grease should definitely be avoided, but grease isn't the only reason to stop oiling your scalp.
Putting any type of oil on your scalp can cause or worsen dandruff. Dandruff is caused by a type of fungus called Malassezia. Doctors don't really know how dandruff starts but they believe it's linked to oily skin and infrequent hair washing. Continuing to put oil on dandruff flakes feeds the fungus and aggravates the condition. To quickly rid yourself of dandruff, use an anti-dandruff shampoo. The Hair Liberty Boutique offers effective options that are gentle on your hair.
If you are someone who applies oil regularly, it's probably because you're trying to moisturize your hair and scalp. It's true, your scalp does need to be moisturized (just like the rest of your skin), but you take care of that when you wash and condition your hair.
Give yourself a scalp massage instead
A healthy scalp is soft, flake-free, and not oily - just like the skin on your face. If you cannot break the habit of oiling your scalp, just shift your efforts from oiling to massaging. Massaging your scalp can slowly stimulate hair growth, especially in areas that have thinned due to tight hairstyles like weaves and braids.
Follow these easy steps:
Step 1: Start by avoiding products that contain large amounts (first five ingredients) of mineral oil, petrolatum, or lanolin.
Step 2: Replace hair grease with pure, natural oils like coconut, olive, avocado, castor, or jojoba oil.
Step 3: Use about 1 tablespoon of oil to lubricate the area of your scalp that you plan to massage. For an extra boost, add 2 drops each of rosemary, lavender, cedarwood, and thyme essential oil.
Step 4: Apply the oil, keeping your fingers planted and moving them in a circular motion. Just like when you get a light back rub or shoulder massage. Don't scratch!
Step 5: To stimulate hair growth, massage for 2-5 minutes daily or as often as possible.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
For those considering going natural...
by Danielle of Long Natural Hair Care
I’m honestly surprised at how often I am asked this question by future-naturals. I love being asked for advice and helping when I can, but this question is so personal it’s really hardly my place to say. In the past I have answered this question with something evasive yet friendly…but now that feels like too much of a cop out. In my first go round as a natural, I did a big chop after a 6 month transition taking me from below bra-strap length up to a little afro. In my second (and final) conversion back to natural, I did a long transition of almost 2 years.
While it’s true, only YOU can determine whether you should transition or do a big chop, there are some important things to consider when making your decision.
How do you usually wear your hair?
If you’re constantly keeping your natural hair braided up under wigs or weaves, or you wear braided extensions for the majority of the time, then you could easily transition this way or do a big chop (depending on your natural hair length) and be fine either way.
If you wear your hair out mostly, straightened or in various other styles without added hair, or without hiding your hair regularly, then you have a big decision to make.
How much energy are you willing to put into your hair?
If you enjoy washing, detangling, deep conditioning, applying treatments, moisturizing, braiding, twisting, and otherwise styling your hair and are patient enough to delicately handle both textures as you grow your relaxed hair ends out, then I’d say go for the transition.
If you are impatient, and hair-lazy, or not confident in your styling skills, then I’d say hide your hair for your transition or do a big chop.
Do you have length issues?
This one is a no brainer. If you are not ready to deal with short hair, go for a long transition. If you’re excited for a new look and short length, BC!
How patient are you?
If you’re anxious to (re)discover your natural texture and type, then by all means BC. If you can wait, and are happy with your relaxed ends weighing down your hair pattern while it grows out, then transition to fully natural.
Other questions to ask yourself before you pick up the scissors are:
Do I know enough about hair care to make a big change? – If the answer is no, then read and research before doing anything drastic.
Do I want to go natural for ME? – If the answer is no, think hard on it, journal your feelings, list the pros and cons for you, and reconsider your motives.
Do I have a backup plan? – Even if you’re 100% gung ho, and you do a big chop, you may be in for a shock. Do you have a backup plan in place? Wigs, scarves, a hair braider you can trust? etc.. Be sure to know what your plan B is before you big chop.
These are just a few of the relevant questions that come to mind when determining whether or not a BC or transition is right for you. Only you can determine what’s right for your lifestyle and your temperament. I know people say “it’s only hair” but this is a big decision and should not be encountered lightly. Best of luck on your journey!
Did you BC or Transition? Are you happy with your decision?
I’m honestly surprised at how often I am asked this question by future-naturals. I love being asked for advice and helping when I can, but this question is so personal it’s really hardly my place to say. In the past I have answered this question with something evasive yet friendly…but now that feels like too much of a cop out. In my first go round as a natural, I did a big chop after a 6 month transition taking me from below bra-strap length up to a little afro. In my second (and final) conversion back to natural, I did a long transition of almost 2 years.
While it’s true, only YOU can determine whether you should transition or do a big chop, there are some important things to consider when making your decision.
How do you usually wear your hair?
If you’re constantly keeping your natural hair braided up under wigs or weaves, or you wear braided extensions for the majority of the time, then you could easily transition this way or do a big chop (depending on your natural hair length) and be fine either way.
If you wear your hair out mostly, straightened or in various other styles without added hair, or without hiding your hair regularly, then you have a big decision to make.
How much energy are you willing to put into your hair?
If you enjoy washing, detangling, deep conditioning, applying treatments, moisturizing, braiding, twisting, and otherwise styling your hair and are patient enough to delicately handle both textures as you grow your relaxed hair ends out, then I’d say go for the transition.
If you are impatient, and hair-lazy, or not confident in your styling skills, then I’d say hide your hair for your transition or do a big chop.
Do you have length issues?
This one is a no brainer. If you are not ready to deal with short hair, go for a long transition. If you’re excited for a new look and short length, BC!
How patient are you?
If you’re anxious to (re)discover your natural texture and type, then by all means BC. If you can wait, and are happy with your relaxed ends weighing down your hair pattern while it grows out, then transition to fully natural.
Other questions to ask yourself before you pick up the scissors are:
Do I know enough about hair care to make a big change? – If the answer is no, then read and research before doing anything drastic.
Do I want to go natural for ME? – If the answer is no, think hard on it, journal your feelings, list the pros and cons for you, and reconsider your motives.
Do I have a backup plan? – Even if you’re 100% gung ho, and you do a big chop, you may be in for a shock. Do you have a backup plan in place? Wigs, scarves, a hair braider you can trust? etc.. Be sure to know what your plan B is before you big chop.
These are just a few of the relevant questions that come to mind when determining whether or not a BC or transition is right for you. Only you can determine what’s right for your lifestyle and your temperament. I know people say “it’s only hair” but this is a big decision and should not be encountered lightly. Best of luck on your journey!
Did you BC or Transition? Are you happy with your decision?
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
For my natural hair friends!
Porosity and why it matters!
To all of you whose eyes just glazed over because you get confused about all of this science-y hair stuff, keep reading (and stop pulling at your coils!! Remember: fine hair is fragile!!!). I promise I’m going to make this easy.
What is porosity? Porosity in hair-speak is a way of saying ” a strand’s ability to soak up and let go of moisture.”
While I would love to keep that pantyhose analogy alive, I can’t and we’re going to talk about porosity in terms of SPONGES.
This is a normal sponge. It absorbs and lets go of water at a normal rate.
This is a sponge in a plastic bag. If you submerge the bag beneath water, the water will eventually get inside the bag, but it will take longer and more effort to fully soak the sponge. It is also more difficult to get the water out.
This is a sponge that I took a pair of scissors to. The larger holes in this one mean that water seeps into and squishes out more easily than the above sponges with normal and low porosity.
Now take these same concepts and apply them to your hair.
Normal sponge = normal porosity. Moisture goes in and out of hair with relative ease at a neither breakneck nor snails pace.
Sponge in plastic bag = Hair with low porosity. It takes a lot more work to moisturize this kind of hair because its harder for moisture to get in. But once you get that moisture in, it is harder for it to get out.
Holey Sponge = Hair with High porosity. This kind of hair absorbs – and loses – moisture much more easily. Normal porosity falls somewhere in the middle of these two.
Think of it this way: High porosity = easy in/easy out. Low porosity = difficult to get in/difficult to get out.
How do you figure out what level of porosity you have?
I’ve heard of three methods for figuring out your porosity.
1. The Slip’n'Slide Test: Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up the shaft (toward the scalp). If you feel little bumps along the way, this means that your cuticle is lifted and that you have high porosity. If it slips smoothly down, then you’re on the lower end of the scale.
2. The Sink-or-Float Test: Take a strand of hair and place it in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, its high porosity. If it takes some time to sink, then its normal porosity. If it just stays floating near the top, then its low porosity.
3. Take Out/Order In: As in take out 20 strands of your hair and order a hair analysis test from Live Curly Live Free. They’ll do a complete analysis of your hair and tell you your porosity (and lots of other fun things) about your hair!
There is no “better” or “worse” porosity because each type has its own unique challenges to work with. The reason knowing porosity is important is because you need to know which type of moisturizer will work best for your hair. Fine hair with high porosity has different moisture needs than fine hair with low porosity. If you end up using the wrong moisturizers for your porosity level, your hair will wind up looking (and feeling) like this type of sponge. (steel wool) And you don’t want that.
To all of you whose eyes just glazed over because you get confused about all of this science-y hair stuff, keep reading (and stop pulling at your coils!! Remember: fine hair is fragile!!!). I promise I’m going to make this easy.
What is porosity? Porosity in hair-speak is a way of saying ” a strand’s ability to soak up and let go of moisture.”
While I would love to keep that pantyhose analogy alive, I can’t and we’re going to talk about porosity in terms of SPONGES.
This is a normal sponge. It absorbs and lets go of water at a normal rate.
This is a sponge in a plastic bag. If you submerge the bag beneath water, the water will eventually get inside the bag, but it will take longer and more effort to fully soak the sponge. It is also more difficult to get the water out.
This is a sponge that I took a pair of scissors to. The larger holes in this one mean that water seeps into and squishes out more easily than the above sponges with normal and low porosity.
Now take these same concepts and apply them to your hair.
Normal sponge = normal porosity. Moisture goes in and out of hair with relative ease at a neither breakneck nor snails pace.
Sponge in plastic bag = Hair with low porosity. It takes a lot more work to moisturize this kind of hair because its harder for moisture to get in. But once you get that moisture in, it is harder for it to get out.
Holey Sponge = Hair with High porosity. This kind of hair absorbs – and loses – moisture much more easily. Normal porosity falls somewhere in the middle of these two.
Think of it this way: High porosity = easy in/easy out. Low porosity = difficult to get in/difficult to get out.
How do you figure out what level of porosity you have?
I’ve heard of three methods for figuring out your porosity.
1. The Slip’n'Slide Test: Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up the shaft (toward the scalp). If you feel little bumps along the way, this means that your cuticle is lifted and that you have high porosity. If it slips smoothly down, then you’re on the lower end of the scale.
2. The Sink-or-Float Test: Take a strand of hair and place it in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, its high porosity. If it takes some time to sink, then its normal porosity. If it just stays floating near the top, then its low porosity.
3. Take Out/Order In: As in take out 20 strands of your hair and order a hair analysis test from Live Curly Live Free. They’ll do a complete analysis of your hair and tell you your porosity (and lots of other fun things) about your hair!
There is no “better” or “worse” porosity because each type has its own unique challenges to work with. The reason knowing porosity is important is because you need to know which type of moisturizer will work best for your hair. Fine hair with high porosity has different moisture needs than fine hair with low porosity. If you end up using the wrong moisturizers for your porosity level, your hair will wind up looking (and feeling) like this type of sponge. (steel wool) And you don’t want that.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
A Great Stylist Isn't Hard To Find....
If you know that to look for!
Welcome to my blog! I am a licensed cosmetologist and currently studying esthetics at The Skin Care and Spa Institute. I love educating myself and my clients about healthy hair, skin and makeup trends. I hope you enjoy it too!
So let's get started
Have you ever took the time to look around the salon you go to and your stylists work station? Have you paid attention to the products being applied to your hair and scalp?
Numerous times I have asked a new client when was their last relaxer and what type of relaxer do they use? "Girl, I dont even know!" Is usually the answer. You stylist should be educating you on your hair and what they are doing to it. Do you know the brand of relaxer being used? Mizani, Kera Care, Affirm, Vitale or some stuff they bought at Walgreens? Do you know if they are using Sensitive Scalp, Regular, Mild, Super, Fine/Color Treated Relaxer? Did your stylist do a client consultation with you?
One relaxer does not fit all!
Sensitive Scalp relaxers:
Affirm is the most recognized professional sensitive scalp relaxer brand. The relaxers you buy at the store are also sensitive scalp or "no-lye" relaxers. It is a guanidine hydroxide relaxer. It has two parts, cream and activator. The cream contains calcium hydroxide which reacts to the activator's guanidine carbonate and produces guanidine hydroxide. That reacts with the hair to produce the straightening effect.
These relaxers are sensitive to the scalp, but harsher on the hair and should be followed up with moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. So, if you see your stylist pouring an activator into a cream base, then she is using a sensitive scalp relaxer.
Sodium Hydroxide relaxers:
These are the most common. I use Mizani relaxer. I like this brand because it is very conditioning to the hair. After the relaxer is rinsed, the second step is the conditioner, letting it penetrate for 10 minutes and then neautralizing to close the hair shaft.
Your stylist should have different relaxers for each hair type. If you have color, the relaxer should say "for fine/color-treated hair". Rarely do I use SUPER relaxer. Most times, I use Mild or regular.
"kiddie perms" are the SAME as a relaxer for adults, just with a kid on the box F.Y.I.....
Shampoo and Conditioner:
Does your stylist shampoo your hair 3 times? Well she should be! lol!
I shampoo first with a clarifying shampoo like Mizani PuripHying shampoo, followed by two shampoos and conditioner under the dryer. I start with a clarifying shampoo to get rid of all the dirt, oil, sweat, porduct build-up, pollutants on the hair. If you havent washed your hair for 7 days, imagine all the "stuff" that's on there! Imagine if you only shampoo your hair every 2 weeks! Once the hair is clean, then the hair is ready to accept the shampoo, allowing it to moisturize the hair.
Take a look at your stylists work station. As a professional stylist, I like to use professional-grade products. Every once in a while i might have a hair product from Walgreens or the local beauty supply store, but not all my products! If you are paying $50 for a service, your stylist shouldnt be using a product that costs $7. A Professional grade shampoo costs about $15-$20.
The shampoos and conditioners should also vary. Fine, color treated , moisturizing, protein shampoos and conditioners should be used according to your hair needs, hair type/texture.
For the ladies with natural hair, I havent forgotten about you! In the near future, I will be posting about natural hair care, maintenance, and styles.
I pride myself in being a hair care professional! I use professional products and I also educate my clients on at-home care and maintenance.
A great stylist isn't hard to find! I am available for all your hair care needs at
Red Karma Hair Spa
3523 S. Indiana Avenue
All referals are welcome!
Welcome to my blog! I am a licensed cosmetologist and currently studying esthetics at The Skin Care and Spa Institute. I love educating myself and my clients about healthy hair, skin and makeup trends. I hope you enjoy it too!
So let's get started
Have you ever took the time to look around the salon you go to and your stylists work station? Have you paid attention to the products being applied to your hair and scalp?
Numerous times I have asked a new client when was their last relaxer and what type of relaxer do they use? "Girl, I dont even know!" Is usually the answer. You stylist should be educating you on your hair and what they are doing to it. Do you know the brand of relaxer being used? Mizani, Kera Care, Affirm, Vitale or some stuff they bought at Walgreens? Do you know if they are using Sensitive Scalp, Regular, Mild, Super, Fine/Color Treated Relaxer? Did your stylist do a client consultation with you?
One relaxer does not fit all!
Sensitive Scalp relaxers:
Affirm is the most recognized professional sensitive scalp relaxer brand. The relaxers you buy at the store are also sensitive scalp or "no-lye" relaxers. It is a guanidine hydroxide relaxer. It has two parts, cream and activator. The cream contains calcium hydroxide which reacts to the activator's guanidine carbonate and produces guanidine hydroxide. That reacts with the hair to produce the straightening effect.
These relaxers are sensitive to the scalp, but harsher on the hair and should be followed up with moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. So, if you see your stylist pouring an activator into a cream base, then she is using a sensitive scalp relaxer.
Sodium Hydroxide relaxers:
These are the most common. I use Mizani relaxer. I like this brand because it is very conditioning to the hair. After the relaxer is rinsed, the second step is the conditioner, letting it penetrate for 10 minutes and then neautralizing to close the hair shaft.
Your stylist should have different relaxers for each hair type. If you have color, the relaxer should say "for fine/color-treated hair". Rarely do I use SUPER relaxer. Most times, I use Mild or regular.
"kiddie perms" are the SAME as a relaxer for adults, just with a kid on the box F.Y.I.....
Shampoo and Conditioner:
Does your stylist shampoo your hair 3 times? Well she should be! lol!
I shampoo first with a clarifying shampoo like Mizani PuripHying shampoo, followed by two shampoos and conditioner under the dryer. I start with a clarifying shampoo to get rid of all the dirt, oil, sweat, porduct build-up, pollutants on the hair. If you havent washed your hair for 7 days, imagine all the "stuff" that's on there! Imagine if you only shampoo your hair every 2 weeks! Once the hair is clean, then the hair is ready to accept the shampoo, allowing it to moisturize the hair.
Take a look at your stylists work station. As a professional stylist, I like to use professional-grade products. Every once in a while i might have a hair product from Walgreens or the local beauty supply store, but not all my products! If you are paying $50 for a service, your stylist shouldnt be using a product that costs $7. A Professional grade shampoo costs about $15-$20.
The shampoos and conditioners should also vary. Fine, color treated , moisturizing, protein shampoos and conditioners should be used according to your hair needs, hair type/texture.
For the ladies with natural hair, I havent forgotten about you! In the near future, I will be posting about natural hair care, maintenance, and styles.
I pride myself in being a hair care professional! I use professional products and I also educate my clients on at-home care and maintenance.
A great stylist isn't hard to find! I am available for all your hair care needs at
Red Karma Hair Spa
3523 S. Indiana Avenue
For an appointment:
All referals are welcome!
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