Porosity and why it matters!
To all of you whose eyes just glazed over because you get confused about all of this science-y hair stuff, keep reading (and stop pulling at your coils!! Remember: fine hair is fragile!!!). I promise I’m going to make this easy.
What is porosity? Porosity in hair-speak is a way of saying ” a strand’s ability to soak up and let go of moisture.”
While I would love to keep that pantyhose analogy alive, I can’t and we’re going to talk about porosity in terms of SPONGES.
This is a normal sponge. It absorbs and lets go of water at a normal rate.
This is a sponge in a plastic bag. If you submerge the bag beneath water, the water will eventually get inside the bag, but it will take longer and more effort to fully soak the sponge. It is also more difficult to get the water out.
This is a sponge that I took a pair of scissors to. The larger holes in this one mean that water seeps into and squishes out more easily than the above sponges with normal and low porosity.
Now take these same concepts and apply them to your hair.
Normal sponge = normal porosity. Moisture goes in and out of hair with relative ease at a neither breakneck nor snails pace.
Sponge in plastic bag = Hair with low porosity. It takes a lot more work to moisturize this kind of hair because its harder for moisture to get in. But once you get that moisture in, it is harder for it to get out.
Holey Sponge = Hair with High porosity. This kind of hair absorbs – and loses – moisture much more easily. Normal porosity falls somewhere in the middle of these two.
Think of it this way: High porosity = easy in/easy out. Low porosity = difficult to get in/difficult to get out.
How do you figure out what level of porosity you have?
I’ve heard of three methods for figuring out your porosity.
1. The Slip’n'Slide Test: Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up the shaft (toward the scalp). If you feel little bumps along the way, this means that your cuticle is lifted and that you have high porosity. If it slips smoothly down, then you’re on the lower end of the scale.
2. The Sink-or-Float Test: Take a strand of hair and place it in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, its high porosity. If it takes some time to sink, then its normal porosity. If it just stays floating near the top, then its low porosity.
3. Take Out/Order In: As in take out 20 strands of your hair and order a hair analysis test from Live Curly Live Free. They’ll do a complete analysis of your hair and tell you your porosity (and lots of other fun things) about your hair!
There is no “better” or “worse” porosity because each type has its own unique challenges to work with. The reason knowing porosity is important is because you need to know which type of moisturizer will work best for your hair. Fine hair with high porosity has different moisture needs than fine hair with low porosity. If you end up using the wrong moisturizers for your porosity level, your hair will wind up looking (and feeling) like this type of sponge. (steel wool) And you don’t want that.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Sunday, March 20, 2011
A Great Stylist Isn't Hard To Find....
If you know that to look for!
Welcome to my blog! I am a licensed cosmetologist and currently studying esthetics at The Skin Care and Spa Institute. I love educating myself and my clients about healthy hair, skin and makeup trends. I hope you enjoy it too!
So let's get started
Have you ever took the time to look around the salon you go to and your stylists work station? Have you paid attention to the products being applied to your hair and scalp?
Numerous times I have asked a new client when was their last relaxer and what type of relaxer do they use? "Girl, I dont even know!" Is usually the answer. You stylist should be educating you on your hair and what they are doing to it. Do you know the brand of relaxer being used? Mizani, Kera Care, Affirm, Vitale or some stuff they bought at Walgreens? Do you know if they are using Sensitive Scalp, Regular, Mild, Super, Fine/Color Treated Relaxer? Did your stylist do a client consultation with you?
One relaxer does not fit all!
Sensitive Scalp relaxers:
Affirm is the most recognized professional sensitive scalp relaxer brand. The relaxers you buy at the store are also sensitive scalp or "no-lye" relaxers. It is a guanidine hydroxide relaxer. It has two parts, cream and activator. The cream contains calcium hydroxide which reacts to the activator's guanidine carbonate and produces guanidine hydroxide. That reacts with the hair to produce the straightening effect.
These relaxers are sensitive to the scalp, but harsher on the hair and should be followed up with moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. So, if you see your stylist pouring an activator into a cream base, then she is using a sensitive scalp relaxer.
Sodium Hydroxide relaxers:
These are the most common. I use Mizani relaxer. I like this brand because it is very conditioning to the hair. After the relaxer is rinsed, the second step is the conditioner, letting it penetrate for 10 minutes and then neautralizing to close the hair shaft.
Your stylist should have different relaxers for each hair type. If you have color, the relaxer should say "for fine/color-treated hair". Rarely do I use SUPER relaxer. Most times, I use Mild or regular.
"kiddie perms" are the SAME as a relaxer for adults, just with a kid on the box F.Y.I.....
Shampoo and Conditioner:
Does your stylist shampoo your hair 3 times? Well she should be! lol!
I shampoo first with a clarifying shampoo like Mizani PuripHying shampoo, followed by two shampoos and conditioner under the dryer. I start with a clarifying shampoo to get rid of all the dirt, oil, sweat, porduct build-up, pollutants on the hair. If you havent washed your hair for 7 days, imagine all the "stuff" that's on there! Imagine if you only shampoo your hair every 2 weeks! Once the hair is clean, then the hair is ready to accept the shampoo, allowing it to moisturize the hair.
Take a look at your stylists work station. As a professional stylist, I like to use professional-grade products. Every once in a while i might have a hair product from Walgreens or the local beauty supply store, but not all my products! If you are paying $50 for a service, your stylist shouldnt be using a product that costs $7. A Professional grade shampoo costs about $15-$20.
The shampoos and conditioners should also vary. Fine, color treated , moisturizing, protein shampoos and conditioners should be used according to your hair needs, hair type/texture.
For the ladies with natural hair, I havent forgotten about you! In the near future, I will be posting about natural hair care, maintenance, and styles.
I pride myself in being a hair care professional! I use professional products and I also educate my clients on at-home care and maintenance.
A great stylist isn't hard to find! I am available for all your hair care needs at
Red Karma Hair Spa
3523 S. Indiana Avenue
All referals are welcome!
Welcome to my blog! I am a licensed cosmetologist and currently studying esthetics at The Skin Care and Spa Institute. I love educating myself and my clients about healthy hair, skin and makeup trends. I hope you enjoy it too!
So let's get started
Have you ever took the time to look around the salon you go to and your stylists work station? Have you paid attention to the products being applied to your hair and scalp?
Numerous times I have asked a new client when was their last relaxer and what type of relaxer do they use? "Girl, I dont even know!" Is usually the answer. You stylist should be educating you on your hair and what they are doing to it. Do you know the brand of relaxer being used? Mizani, Kera Care, Affirm, Vitale or some stuff they bought at Walgreens? Do you know if they are using Sensitive Scalp, Regular, Mild, Super, Fine/Color Treated Relaxer? Did your stylist do a client consultation with you?
One relaxer does not fit all!
Sensitive Scalp relaxers:
Affirm is the most recognized professional sensitive scalp relaxer brand. The relaxers you buy at the store are also sensitive scalp or "no-lye" relaxers. It is a guanidine hydroxide relaxer. It has two parts, cream and activator. The cream contains calcium hydroxide which reacts to the activator's guanidine carbonate and produces guanidine hydroxide. That reacts with the hair to produce the straightening effect.
These relaxers are sensitive to the scalp, but harsher on the hair and should be followed up with moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. So, if you see your stylist pouring an activator into a cream base, then she is using a sensitive scalp relaxer.
Sodium Hydroxide relaxers:
These are the most common. I use Mizani relaxer. I like this brand because it is very conditioning to the hair. After the relaxer is rinsed, the second step is the conditioner, letting it penetrate for 10 minutes and then neautralizing to close the hair shaft.
Your stylist should have different relaxers for each hair type. If you have color, the relaxer should say "for fine/color-treated hair". Rarely do I use SUPER relaxer. Most times, I use Mild or regular.
"kiddie perms" are the SAME as a relaxer for adults, just with a kid on the box F.Y.I.....
Shampoo and Conditioner:
Does your stylist shampoo your hair 3 times? Well she should be! lol!
I shampoo first with a clarifying shampoo like Mizani PuripHying shampoo, followed by two shampoos and conditioner under the dryer. I start with a clarifying shampoo to get rid of all the dirt, oil, sweat, porduct build-up, pollutants on the hair. If you havent washed your hair for 7 days, imagine all the "stuff" that's on there! Imagine if you only shampoo your hair every 2 weeks! Once the hair is clean, then the hair is ready to accept the shampoo, allowing it to moisturize the hair.
Take a look at your stylists work station. As a professional stylist, I like to use professional-grade products. Every once in a while i might have a hair product from Walgreens or the local beauty supply store, but not all my products! If you are paying $50 for a service, your stylist shouldnt be using a product that costs $7. A Professional grade shampoo costs about $15-$20.
The shampoos and conditioners should also vary. Fine, color treated , moisturizing, protein shampoos and conditioners should be used according to your hair needs, hair type/texture.
For the ladies with natural hair, I havent forgotten about you! In the near future, I will be posting about natural hair care, maintenance, and styles.
I pride myself in being a hair care professional! I use professional products and I also educate my clients on at-home care and maintenance.
A great stylist isn't hard to find! I am available for all your hair care needs at
Red Karma Hair Spa
3523 S. Indiana Avenue
All referals are welcome!
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